Even a city block can have color amidst the smog and uniformity.
Friday, June 12, 2009
Thursday, June 11, 2009
Vamos, vamos chilenos! Esta noche tenemos que ganar!
"Let’s go, let’s go Chileans! Tonight we have to win!"
My first and potentially only fútbol experience in Chile was fascinating. Currently, teams around the world are competing to qualify for the 2010 World Cup. Last night, third-place Chile faced lowly Bolivia. Ultimately, Chile emerged victorious: 4-0. With the win, Chile sealed its trip to the World Cup.
Five out of the six DukeEngagers purchased tickets on Monday to attend Wednesday night’s game (Karna's host family had a ticket for him, but he's been sick). Our tickets were 25,000 pesos, or about $45. They were the second cheapest seats. After some difficulties finding one another, we entered the packed stadium. Since cheaper tickets don’t have assigned seating and we were a bit late, we ended up sitting towards the front at one of the corners. We had a chain link fence in our view, but I liked being close and able to see physicality of the game. When I went to a game in Barcelona, I sat at the top of a stadium that held nearly 100,000 people! This time, it was like watching a different game. We were in front of the small, fenced Bolivian section. I’ve never seen so many riot police or carabineros throughout the stadium. Riot police, in full gear, protected the small section half full with Bolivia fans and the chain link fence had spikes to keep people from climbing over. There were easily hundreds of riot police throughout the stadium and the surround area in armored trucks. Soccer in Chile is national pride, which can turn violent or dangerous with all the passion involved. You could feel the energy of the fans decked in red and waving Chilean flags. Many Chileans around us yelled profanities at the Bolivians (who were too far away to hear) and flipped the bird. Whenever Chile scored, the stadium erupted. Literally. Several people throughout the stadium lit what looked like flares, lighting up the night.
After Chile won, as expected, many fans headed toward Plaza Italia to celebrate. I unfortunately avoided the celebration since I wanted to get some sleep. Furthermore, I heard that the celebrations usually become quite chaotic and dangerous. A few of my friends ended up going towards the end and found themselves irritated by the tear gas used to disperse the ruckus crown. On my walk home, I saw Chilenos hanging out of cars waving Chilean flags, chanting songs, and honking horns.
Today at work, another Chilean intern clearly identified the chief factor of fútbol: everyone is united through the game, no matter their social standing. Fútbol brings poor and affluent Chileans together to support their nation. National sport is probably the only cultural phenomenon that I can think of in all my travels that truly transcends social and economic status. Some people might argue that religion can act in this way, but I think religion becomes a part of the oppression in many countries. Hundreds of people surround the stadium selling Chilean flags, hats, face masks (thank you swine flu), jerseys, and scarves. Of course there are signs of differences during sporting events depending on where you are able to watch the game, whether it’s a bar or a warm box at el Estadio Nacional. In addition to uniting countries, sport also acts an arena for airing hostilities, prejudices, and rivalries between nations. Many of Chilean cheers and slurs were quite derogatory towards the Bolivians. I’m sure if I attended several more soccer matches, I’d pick up quite a few words to add to my vocabulario. Nonetheless, a well-fought match is healthier than armed conflict or outward animosity away from the confines of the soccer field.
My first and potentially only fútbol experience in Chile was fascinating. Currently, teams around the world are competing to qualify for the 2010 World Cup. Last night, third-place Chile faced lowly Bolivia. Ultimately, Chile emerged victorious: 4-0. With the win, Chile sealed its trip to the World Cup.
Five out of the six DukeEngagers purchased tickets on Monday to attend Wednesday night’s game (Karna's host family had a ticket for him, but he's been sick). Our tickets were 25,000 pesos, or about $45. They were the second cheapest seats. After some difficulties finding one another, we entered the packed stadium. Since cheaper tickets don’t have assigned seating and we were a bit late, we ended up sitting towards the front at one of the corners. We had a chain link fence in our view, but I liked being close and able to see physicality of the game. When I went to a game in Barcelona, I sat at the top of a stadium that held nearly 100,000 people! This time, it was like watching a different game. We were in front of the small, fenced Bolivian section. I’ve never seen so many riot police or carabineros throughout the stadium. Riot police, in full gear, protected the small section half full with Bolivia fans and the chain link fence had spikes to keep people from climbing over. There were easily hundreds of riot police throughout the stadium and the surround area in armored trucks. Soccer in Chile is national pride, which can turn violent or dangerous with all the passion involved. You could feel the energy of the fans decked in red and waving Chilean flags. Many Chileans around us yelled profanities at the Bolivians (who were too far away to hear) and flipped the bird. Whenever Chile scored, the stadium erupted. Literally. Several people throughout the stadium lit what looked like flares, lighting up the night.
After Chile won, as expected, many fans headed toward Plaza Italia to celebrate. I unfortunately avoided the celebration since I wanted to get some sleep. Furthermore, I heard that the celebrations usually become quite chaotic and dangerous. A few of my friends ended up going towards the end and found themselves irritated by the tear gas used to disperse the ruckus crown. On my walk home, I saw Chilenos hanging out of cars waving Chilean flags, chanting songs, and honking horns.
Today at work, another Chilean intern clearly identified the chief factor of fútbol: everyone is united through the game, no matter their social standing. Fútbol brings poor and affluent Chileans together to support their nation. National sport is probably the only cultural phenomenon that I can think of in all my travels that truly transcends social and economic status. Some people might argue that religion can act in this way, but I think religion becomes a part of the oppression in many countries. Hundreds of people surround the stadium selling Chilean flags, hats, face masks (thank you swine flu), jerseys, and scarves. Of course there are signs of differences during sporting events depending on where you are able to watch the game, whether it’s a bar or a warm box at el Estadio Nacional. In addition to uniting countries, sport also acts an arena for airing hostilities, prejudices, and rivalries between nations. Many of Chilean cheers and slurs were quite derogatory towards the Bolivians. I’m sure if I attended several more soccer matches, I’d pick up quite a few words to add to my vocabulario. Nonetheless, a well-fought match is healthier than armed conflict or outward animosity away from the confines of the soccer field.
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
Transantiago: Herding Cattle
Transantiago is a public transportation reform that first began to take form at the end of October in 2005. Before Transantiago, thousands of independent bus operators formed the transport system. This system was plagued by redundancy, vast differences in quality, pollution, and long travel times for many of the citizen’s poor.
The reform was carried out by replacing all the independent bus operators with fewer companies and a streamlined fare system that allows riders to transfer between buses and the subway with a contactless prepaid bip! card. However, streamlining routes and eliminating competition between independent operators on February 10, 2007, proved disasterous. Instead of improving the system, the reform reduced the number of buses in service and eliminated incentives for bus drivers. Ultimately, these problems caused enormous congestion problems and reduced the level of service. An investigative report by El Mercurio, a large Santiago newspaper, found that many of the routes were actually much slower than the previous routes. As a result of the terrible implementation, President Michelle Bachelet’s approval rating fell from 55% to 42.7% in a month.
This morning during my commute, I experienced another problem associated with Transantiago: the overcrowding of the metro system. Before Transantiago, the metro carried 1,300,000 commuters. Today, the system carriers closer to 2,200,000 passengers. This is equal to over six users per square meter! I had to wait for SEVEN trains! Since few people get off in the mornings at my metro stop, it’s extremely competitive to find room on the trains. With a backpack and being quite large compared to the average Chilean, squeezing in is even more difficult. To say the least, it was a frustrating experience. I had no problems the previous morning, when I arrived 20 minutes earlier. This morning, I was 25 minutes late. The subway system here is like herding cattle. There’s no need for a metaphor, because that’s how it is. Each station is full of constant streams of commuters. With so many people living in Santiago and with few owning cars, solving the public transportation dilemma is no easy task. However, it’s clear that the Transantiago reform is a long way from completion.
The reform was carried out by replacing all the independent bus operators with fewer companies and a streamlined fare system that allows riders to transfer between buses and the subway with a contactless prepaid bip! card. However, streamlining routes and eliminating competition between independent operators on February 10, 2007, proved disasterous. Instead of improving the system, the reform reduced the number of buses in service and eliminated incentives for bus drivers. Ultimately, these problems caused enormous congestion problems and reduced the level of service. An investigative report by El Mercurio, a large Santiago newspaper, found that many of the routes were actually much slower than the previous routes. As a result of the terrible implementation, President Michelle Bachelet’s approval rating fell from 55% to 42.7% in a month.
This morning during my commute, I experienced another problem associated with Transantiago: the overcrowding of the metro system. Before Transantiago, the metro carried 1,300,000 commuters. Today, the system carriers closer to 2,200,000 passengers. This is equal to over six users per square meter! I had to wait for SEVEN trains! Since few people get off in the mornings at my metro stop, it’s extremely competitive to find room on the trains. With a backpack and being quite large compared to the average Chilean, squeezing in is even more difficult. To say the least, it was a frustrating experience. I had no problems the previous morning, when I arrived 20 minutes earlier. This morning, I was 25 minutes late. The subway system here is like herding cattle. There’s no need for a metaphor, because that’s how it is. Each station is full of constant streams of commuters. With so many people living in Santiago and with few owning cars, solving the public transportation dilemma is no easy task. However, it’s clear that the Transantiago reform is a long way from completion.
Monday, June 8, 2009
The next 8 weeks
Today, during our orientation, I found out my summer project. I, along with Jordan, will work at the Santiago Norponiente office on creating a course guide for a chapter of the Acción Emprendora program. Fortunately, the office is near my house, unlike Puente Alto, which is at least an hour away.
Jordan and I will begin our project by studying a chapter from the current student manual. After becoming “experts” about our chapter (most likely regarding production), we will learn the vocabulary for our chapter. Then, we will conduct interviews and research with former and current teachers and students of the course to find out how to best design the courses. We’ll also attend several classes to get a better idea of how the courses are generally run.
After conducting research and familiarizing ourselves with the AE model, we’ll compile our course manual. It’ll include PowerPoint presentations, practice problems, case studies, and a well-outlined guide that will help enable consistency throughout the AE centers and between course instructors.
In addition to designing the manual, all interns are aiming to raise awareness about AE in Chile, South America, and the U.S. We are especially looking for grants to help AE grow or form partnerships that could aid AE.
I’m excited and nervous for my project. I was originally looking at another project, but after learning more about this project, I think I’ll be a great fit. It will certainly be a challenge. The Norponiente office is nearly entirely Spanish speaking. I hope to build upon my skills and background as a Teaching Assistant in Public Policy. I am sure this will help my abilities when I return to Duke.
I have so many other subjects to talk about after just three days here, but they will have to wait. I’ve never lived in a city that is as large and chaotic as Santiago. My host family is extremely well educated and interesting. Already, we’ve discussed issues ranging from public versus private jails in Chile, to the recent divorce law (divorce became legal in Chile just three years ago), to the judicial system, to the levels of poverty in Chile.
The post office and the mayor's house surrounding the Plaza de Armas en the center of Santiago:
La Moneda is the presidential palace that was bombarded with former Chilean President Salvador Allende inside:
Jordan and I will begin our project by studying a chapter from the current student manual. After becoming “experts” about our chapter (most likely regarding production), we will learn the vocabulary for our chapter. Then, we will conduct interviews and research with former and current teachers and students of the course to find out how to best design the courses. We’ll also attend several classes to get a better idea of how the courses are generally run.
After conducting research and familiarizing ourselves with the AE model, we’ll compile our course manual. It’ll include PowerPoint presentations, practice problems, case studies, and a well-outlined guide that will help enable consistency throughout the AE centers and between course instructors.
In addition to designing the manual, all interns are aiming to raise awareness about AE in Chile, South America, and the U.S. We are especially looking for grants to help AE grow or form partnerships that could aid AE.
I’m excited and nervous for my project. I was originally looking at another project, but after learning more about this project, I think I’ll be a great fit. It will certainly be a challenge. The Norponiente office is nearly entirely Spanish speaking. I hope to build upon my skills and background as a Teaching Assistant in Public Policy. I am sure this will help my abilities when I return to Duke.
I have so many other subjects to talk about after just three days here, but they will have to wait. I’ve never lived in a city that is as large and chaotic as Santiago. My host family is extremely well educated and interesting. Already, we’ve discussed issues ranging from public versus private jails in Chile, to the recent divorce law (divorce became legal in Chile just three years ago), to the judicial system, to the levels of poverty in Chile.
The post office and the mayor's house surrounding the Plaza de Armas en the center of Santiago:
La Moneda is the presidential palace that was bombarded with former Chilean President Salvador Allende inside:
Sunday, June 7, 2009
The Long Trek to Santiago
That was a long trip. I woke up 4:15 on Friday and headed to the airport. I managed to score a last minute upgrade to New York, which helped reduce the pain of that 5-hour flight. In New York, I met up with Liz and Elana. We were lucky that our eleven our flight to Chile was nearly empty. Everyone had at least one to three seats to himself. I’ve never had a long flight that was so empty! I watched The Watchmen, which concluded when we were over Cuba. It was neat to look down and see the lights throughout Cuba, hoping some day I’ll be able to visit. I managed to sleep for probably five decent hours before breakfast. LAN Airlines is great. They have new cabins and the most comfortable seats out of any airline I’ve flown. They also have a great inflight entertainment system that eases the tedium of a long flight.
I was disappointed that the flight into Santiago was still dark. I could barely make out the silhouette of the Andes. I could also notice the smog in the air because it was clear out, yet the safety beacons on the wing reflected off a layer of pollution.
When we arrived at the Santiago Airport, we had to pay a $131 reciprocity fee. Since the U.S. charges other countries’ citizens several hundred dollars to enter, other countries now apply a similar charge to Americans. Elana and Liz tried to pay in cash, but the man would not accept the bills. They had to be absolutely perfect. Eventually, everyone paid with a credit card. After we picked up our bags, the girls immediately got taken advantage of. Airport staff offered to push the carts they had their bags on. We literally went 15 feet, and they wanted a tip. If I had realized that they weren’t waiting for us, I would’ve known what was going on. I really hate when people take advantage of you at an airport. First impressions are so important and negative impressions lead to mistrust.
Marlen and Antonio greeted us in a mixture of Spanish and English. My exhausted brain struggled. The ride to the hotel was short. The air felt cold and crisp, like camping. At our hotel, ChilHotel, I took a three-hour nap and struggled to find the energy to manage a shower. I finally felt clean, rested, and ready to explore Santiago this afternoon!
I was disappointed that the flight into Santiago was still dark. I could barely make out the silhouette of the Andes. I could also notice the smog in the air because it was clear out, yet the safety beacons on the wing reflected off a layer of pollution.
When we arrived at the Santiago Airport, we had to pay a $131 reciprocity fee. Since the U.S. charges other countries’ citizens several hundred dollars to enter, other countries now apply a similar charge to Americans. Elana and Liz tried to pay in cash, but the man would not accept the bills. They had to be absolutely perfect. Eventually, everyone paid with a credit card. After we picked up our bags, the girls immediately got taken advantage of. Airport staff offered to push the carts they had their bags on. We literally went 15 feet, and they wanted a tip. If I had realized that they weren’t waiting for us, I would’ve known what was going on. I really hate when people take advantage of you at an airport. First impressions are so important and negative impressions lead to mistrust.
Marlen and Antonio greeted us in a mixture of Spanish and English. My exhausted brain struggled. The ride to the hotel was short. The air felt cold and crisp, like camping. At our hotel, ChilHotel, I took a three-hour nap and struggled to find the energy to manage a shower. I finally felt clean, rested, and ready to explore Santiago this afternoon!
Thursday, June 4, 2009
The night before departure
My alarm is set for 4:15 am, Friday morning, June 5th. My two suitcases are packed and my backpack is only missing my lunch and my laptop. I'm set to fly Delta from Portland to New York Kennedy, where I'll have a 5.5 hour layover before catching my nearly 11 hour flight on LAN Airlines. In total, I'll cover 7,551 miles. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like my upgrade will clear to JFK (I'm a DL frequent flyer thanks to all my trips between Duke and Portland and other travels).
I'm anxious, nervous, and excited. I hope I haven't forgotten anything, but Santiago should have anything I need. I know the nervous and anxiety will dissipate once I get checked in. I love flying and trips; it's just a tad stressful leading up to the trip. I'm still not sure what exactly I'll be doing for the next two months, nor how I'll be able to comprehend the Chilean Spanish. I hear it's like another language. I feel similar to how I did before I left for Spain, although I feel a bit more prepared. I remember getting to my gate in Amsterdam and hearing all the Spanish around me after a year of taking Arabic instead. I had no idea what I had gotten myself into, yet I managed just fine during my four months in Spain.
This experience will prove to be a greater challenge. I hope to better integrate into Chilean life by making Chilean friends and actually speaking Spanish. My service will be purposeful. As I said in my application, this experience really will be the capstone to my Spanish through the past nine years and my coursework at Duke.
I'm anxious, nervous, and excited. I hope I haven't forgotten anything, but Santiago should have anything I need. I know the nervous and anxiety will dissipate once I get checked in. I love flying and trips; it's just a tad stressful leading up to the trip. I'm still not sure what exactly I'll be doing for the next two months, nor how I'll be able to comprehend the Chilean Spanish. I hear it's like another language. I feel similar to how I did before I left for Spain, although I feel a bit more prepared. I remember getting to my gate in Amsterdam and hearing all the Spanish around me after a year of taking Arabic instead. I had no idea what I had gotten myself into, yet I managed just fine during my four months in Spain.
This experience will prove to be a greater challenge. I hope to better integrate into Chilean life by making Chilean friends and actually speaking Spanish. My service will be purposeful. As I said in my application, this experience really will be the capstone to my Spanish through the past nine years and my coursework at Duke.
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
A Brief Introduction to Chile
Overview:
The Republic of Chile, as it is formally known, is home to nearly seventeen million residents. Nearly seven million people live in the greater Santiago metropolitan area. Santiago is also the capital of Chile, although Valparaíso, located fifty miles away on the coast houses the national congress. Chile is somewhat unique in it’s geography. Its coastline stretches over 2,880 miles, but Chile is only 265 miles at its widest point. Because of the sheer length of the country, Chile’s geography, climate, and natural resources vary. The Atacama Desert in the north is one of the driest places on the planet. It is also where the newest James Bond film Quantum of Solace was filmed. In the south, numerous glaciers create a stunning landscape.
History and Politics:
Migrating Native Americans settled in Chile at least 10,000 years ago. In the 1500s, Spanish conquistadores conquered Chile in search of silver and gold. Ultimately, agriculture became an important stable of Spanish Chile. Chile finally declared independence in September of 1810, but a decade long struggle with Spain and various political parties ensued.
After the Chilean Civil War in 1891, Chile established a parliamentary style democracy. The 20th century saw the rise and fall of many politicians and general political instability. The rise of Marxism after the Russian Revolution and the threat of Communism after World War II led to a continuous effort by the United States and CIA operatives to undermine communism and socialism. In 1970, Salvador Allende, head of Chile’s Socialist Party, Unidad Popular (Popular Unity), was elected President of Chile. He aimed to advance workers’ interest and pursued agricultural reform to help Chile’s lower class. Richard Nixon’s administration organized secret operations to destabilize Allende’s government. A military coup by General Augusto Pinochet overthrew Allende on September 11, 1973. Allende reportedly committed suicide.
General Pinochet’s regime was marked by numerous human rights violations, especially in the years immediately following the coup. Thousands of Chileans “disappeared” during General Pinochet’s reign as he moved Chile toward a free market economy and controlled inflation, which previously was as high as 300% per year. Finally, in 1990, General Pinochet replaced by Patricio Aylwin after Pinochet was denied another term in a 1988 plebiscite. Nonetheless, General Pinochet remained “Senator for Life.” During the 1990s and even until now, Chile dealt with reconciling the human rights violations committed by General Pinochet and his regime with moving forward.
Michelle Bachelet is currently President of Chile. This center-left politician became the first female to lead Chile when she was elected in 2006.
Economy:
Copper is one of Chile’s most important exports. In fact, Chile is responsible for over one third of the world's copper production The GDP per capita taking into account purchasing power parity is $14,510. The U.S. is Chile’s most important trading partner. A free trade agreement between the two countries came into effect in 2004. As a result of conservative government spending and prudent saving practices, Chile has weathered the current global economic crisis fairly well. Chile has the most successful economy of any Latin American country.
A recent Wall Street Journal article outlines Chile’s success: http://online.wsj.com/article/SB124337806443856111.html
Even with Chile’s economic success, especially compared to other Latin American countries, poverty and inequality continue to be a problem. According to Government polls, poverty levels fell from 46% in 1987 to 14% in 2006. However, critics argue that poverty rates are much higher, possibly as high as 29% when using more developed yardsticks.
Demographics:
Spanish is the official language of Chile, although Chilean Spanish is quite different than that of neighboring Spanish-speaking countries. Nearly 95% of the population is white when mestizos with predominantly white (castizos) ancestry are included). The Mapuche are the largest indigenous group at over 4% of the population. In a 2002 census, 70 percent of the population identified as Roman Catholic and 15% as evangelical.
Sports:
Chile’s most popular sport is fútbol (soccer), while rodeo is the country’s national sport. Basketball has also grown in popularity.
Famous People:
Pablo Neruda, who won the Nobel Prize for Literature, is Chile’s most famous poet.
The Republic of Chile, as it is formally known, is home to nearly seventeen million residents. Nearly seven million people live in the greater Santiago metropolitan area. Santiago is also the capital of Chile, although Valparaíso, located fifty miles away on the coast houses the national congress. Chile is somewhat unique in it’s geography. Its coastline stretches over 2,880 miles, but Chile is only 265 miles at its widest point. Because of the sheer length of the country, Chile’s geography, climate, and natural resources vary. The Atacama Desert in the north is one of the driest places on the planet. It is also where the newest James Bond film Quantum of Solace was filmed. In the south, numerous glaciers create a stunning landscape.
History and Politics:
Migrating Native Americans settled in Chile at least 10,000 years ago. In the 1500s, Spanish conquistadores conquered Chile in search of silver and gold. Ultimately, agriculture became an important stable of Spanish Chile. Chile finally declared independence in September of 1810, but a decade long struggle with Spain and various political parties ensued.
After the Chilean Civil War in 1891, Chile established a parliamentary style democracy. The 20th century saw the rise and fall of many politicians and general political instability. The rise of Marxism after the Russian Revolution and the threat of Communism after World War II led to a continuous effort by the United States and CIA operatives to undermine communism and socialism. In 1970, Salvador Allende, head of Chile’s Socialist Party, Unidad Popular (Popular Unity), was elected President of Chile. He aimed to advance workers’ interest and pursued agricultural reform to help Chile’s lower class. Richard Nixon’s administration organized secret operations to destabilize Allende’s government. A military coup by General Augusto Pinochet overthrew Allende on September 11, 1973. Allende reportedly committed suicide.
General Pinochet’s regime was marked by numerous human rights violations, especially in the years immediately following the coup. Thousands of Chileans “disappeared” during General Pinochet’s reign as he moved Chile toward a free market economy and controlled inflation, which previously was as high as 300% per year. Finally, in 1990, General Pinochet replaced by Patricio Aylwin after Pinochet was denied another term in a 1988 plebiscite. Nonetheless, General Pinochet remained “Senator for Life.” During the 1990s and even until now, Chile dealt with reconciling the human rights violations committed by General Pinochet and his regime with moving forward.
Michelle Bachelet is currently President of Chile. This center-left politician became the first female to lead Chile when she was elected in 2006.
Economy:
Copper is one of Chile’s most important exports. In fact, Chile is responsible for over one third of the world's copper production The GDP per capita taking into account purchasing power parity is $14,510. The U.S. is Chile’s most important trading partner. A free trade agreement between the two countries came into effect in 2004. As a result of conservative government spending and prudent saving practices, Chile has weathered the current global economic crisis fairly well. Chile has the most successful economy of any Latin American country.
A recent Wall Street Journal article outlines Chile’s success: http://online.wsj.com/article/SB124337806443856111.html
Even with Chile’s economic success, especially compared to other Latin American countries, poverty and inequality continue to be a problem. According to Government polls, poverty levels fell from 46% in 1987 to 14% in 2006. However, critics argue that poverty rates are much higher, possibly as high as 29% when using more developed yardsticks.
Demographics:
Spanish is the official language of Chile, although Chilean Spanish is quite different than that of neighboring Spanish-speaking countries. Nearly 95% of the population is white when mestizos with predominantly white (castizos) ancestry are included). The Mapuche are the largest indigenous group at over 4% of the population. In a 2002 census, 70 percent of the population identified as Roman Catholic and 15% as evangelical.
Sports:
Chile’s most popular sport is fútbol (soccer), while rodeo is the country’s national sport. Basketball has also grown in popularity.
Famous People:
Pablo Neruda, who won the Nobel Prize for Literature, is Chile’s most famous poet.
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